- Exposition: East
- Recommended season:Summer
- Rock type:Grey limestone and little holds, vertical wall of technique and movement
- Protection:Bolts never long distanced
This crag is a little gem set in a little valley in Bagolino. It gives climbers a bit of fresh air on hot Summer afternoons.
There is little information about this crag, and maybe because of its difficult approach or its modest difficulties, it’s almost abandoned.
Well, appearances can be deceptive: thanks to the work of some locals, the crag has been kept in excellent conditions: some blades of grass could be found on the wall, but nothing annoying, the path to it is in good condition too.
If you’re climbers looking for 6b/6c routes, you’ll find a beautiful environment, fresh and silent, with comfortable benches.
Climbing here is characterized by very technical routes; using feet between holds is essential, and sometimes grip requires a great deal of confidence to move on some passages.
Rock is presented as good/excellent, protected by spits and bolts. Routes were bolted at the beginning of the ‘90s by Ugo Mariani, Carlo Fusi, and Daniela Lombardi.
Given the great commitment of locals, in case you visit this place, like every other crag, leave it as you found it: clean and tidy.
Reporter: Davide Franzoni
- Parking coordinates: N45°48.733’ E10°27.266’
- Approach time: 10 minutes
After passing through the village of Bagolino:
Follow the direction to Maniva. Take the road to the power station of Caffaro. Pass it and go up for 2 km.
After the Plass area, find out a little unpaved road, where it's visible a crowbar and the sign Palestra di Roccia; follow the path, and you'll reach the crag.
|1||El diablo||6c||33 m|
|2||Le Strope||6a+||24 m|
|4||Lo specchio di Daniela||6c||22 m|
|5||Sosta vietata||6c||48 m|
|6||Lo sguardo della volpe morta||6c||57 m|
|7||Torna in diedro||6b+||50 m|
A circa metà via parte una variante di grado 6b, stessa sosta.
|9||Raponzolo di roccia||6b+||50 m|
|10||Lumaca wall||6b+||23 m|
|11||Magic creek||7a+||25 m|
|12||Lo spigolo||6b+||23 m|
|13||Vento da nord||6c+||24 m|
Monotiro di recentissima chiodatura