• Exposition: South
  • Recommended season:Winter
  • Rock type:Mostly big holds, quite sloper holds of strength on a slightly overhanging wall
  • Protection:Good bolts well maintained. Attention! Gear is not close

In the first 80s, a line of ascent was identified, after several attempts, at the center of an evident pinnacle, which overlooks Fossane village.

At the hands of Ugo Mariani and Ermanno Francinelli, the very first route on the sector called “Pilastro di Mezzogiorno,” for its exposure, was born through a series of attempts and sometimes helped by some friends.

Ground-up climbed, using artisanal bolts and pressure bolts at points without cracks, via Bruna went up at the top of Pilastro with three pitches, from where climbers rappelled from the carving of the opposite side.

After some years, with the arrival of modern spit, bolting became more in view of sport-climbing. However, the same tendency continues, bolting other routes on the main wall and adjacent sectors: Pilastro Nascosto (Hidden Pilastro), Wyoming Sheep Ranch, Placca Bianca, and the other lower one, Fossane crag (See Corna di Pavaglio or Fossane in the other description).

Between bolters who made up this crag over time, beyond the cited Ugo and Ermanno, there are Silvio Depretis, Mario Cavagnini, Antonello Liotti, and Martino Pilatti.

Reporter: Ermanno Francinelli


  • Approach time: 10 minutes

From Barghe, follow directions to Provaglio Val Sabbia. After the hamlet of Fossane go straight for a few hundred meters, and at a hairpin, you see the crag; then park the car at the little plot ( there is little space). Follow the path for more or less 10 minutes.

Pilastro di mezzogiorno

Pilastro sectors

1 Rain man 6c 35 m
L1: 6b 20 m
L2: 6c 15 m

Solo un passo, per i più lunghi.

2 Wounded knee 7b 35 m

Passaggio duro in partenza.

L1: 7b 20 m
L2: 6a+ 15 m
3 Capelli d'oro 7c 42 m
L1: 7c 27 m
L2: 6b 15 m
4 Il volo del calabrone 7b 32 m
5 Gollum 7c 30 m
6 Bruna 6b 45 m

Partenza a sinistra, poi attraversa a destra incrociando "Tangerine trippa"

L1: 6a+ 30 m
L2: 6b 15 m
7 Tangerine trippa 6c 42 m
L1: 6c 30 m
L2: 6b+ 12 m
8 Lucciole 6b 50 m
L1: 6a+ 25 m
L2: 6b 15 m
L3: 6a+ 10 m
9 Gobbe di cammello 6b 28 m
10 CARIE 7a 28 m
L1: 5c 20 m
L2: 7a 8 m
11 Variante Omicron 5c 20 m

Pilastro nascosto

Pilastro sectors

1 Bubamara 6b+ 18 m

Passo boulder in partenza.

2 Don-Du-il 6b+ 18 m

Breve ma intenso.

3 Bloody sunday 6b+ 20 m

Partenza strapiombante su canna e finale a sorpresa su placca.

4 El buitre 6b+ 30 m

Chi cerca bene trova sempre qualcosa di buono.

5 The groove 6b+ 30 m

Non è la canna bagnata il problema.

6 Chickenhead ledge 6b+ 30 m

Poi molla.

7 Angostura 6b 55 m
L1: 6b 35 m

Un ottimo riscaldamento.

L2: 6b 20 m

Roccia super. Provare per credere.

8 Africa 7a+ 55 m
L1: 7a 35 m

Fatta la prima parte di resistenza, un finale tecnico.

L2: 7a+ 20 m

Buon viaggio, e attenzione al ritorno.

9 L'uomo di Similaun 7b 55 m
L1: 6c 30 m

Approfittatene se la canna non è bagnata, merita.

L2: 6c 10 m

Vale la pena fare ancora qualche metro se non si è in riserva.

L3: 7b 15 m
10 Formiche rosse 6c+ 55 m
L1: 6b 35 m
L2: 6c+ 20 m
11 Via del Mario 7a+ 25 m

La via di accesso è "Formiche Rosse L1".

12 Via del Silvio 7b+ 25 m

La via di accesso è "Formiche rosse L2".

13 L'amore a Mura 6a 25 m

Per la partenza della via, risalire la ferrata fino al suo inizio.

Wyoming Sheep

Pilastro sectors

1 Canna bianca 6c 29 m
2 Galatasaray 8a 30 m
3 Wyoming 7c+ 30 m
4 Baluba boy 8b 27 m
5 Hilary steep 7c 27 m
6 Dominator 7a+ 22 m

Whyte rock

Pilastro sectors

1 Vacanze romane 6c 25 m
2 PG for president 7a+ 25 m
3 Wadirum 6a+ 25 m
4 La banda del buco 6c 25 m
5 White rok 6c 25 m
6 Cannelle gemelle 6c 25 m
7 Innominata 6a+ 20 m