- Exposition: East
- Recommended season:Summer, Mid Season
- Rock type:Slippery holds and holes
- Protection:Bolts well placed and close to each other
This is one of the oldest crags of the Valley. When the bolter and mountaineer Ugo Mariani went to trace maps to Corna Zana there were already other routes. These routes were fixed and secured, and others were bolted.
The crag is split into three sectors: Corna Zana, Grotta del Drago (the Cave of the Dragon), and Ponte del Salto (the Bridge of the Jump). The most popular sector is, in any case, Corna Zana.
Except for the cave (Grotta del Drago), this is not the typical severe crag in the Valsabbia area: it's placed in a lovely setting with comfortable parking, Vie Ferrate of Fucine, Casto Forge Park, where there is an excellent cafè and lots of space for children or to have a picnic. It is, in short, a fantastic place to spend a great day with the family and to do some rock climbing.
Everything changes in the sector Grotta del Drago (the Cave of the Dragon): holes and slippery holds leave space to tufas mostly on overhangs. The sector is not very popular among local climbers; unfortunately the rock is not of very hight quality, and even though it's well bolted, the use of a helmet is highly recommended.
Reporter: Davide Franzoni
- Parking coordinates: N45°41.468’ E10°18.649’
Reach Casto, then go through the area of Alone or follow the indication to Parco delle Fucine (Casto Forge Park). Once passed the center of Casto (a high relief of a climber on the rock near the first Via Ferrata of the park is well visible), Grotta del Drago sector is reachable following the park's path next to the road (300 mt). The sector Sapei is reachable by car from Corna Zana, going back in Alone direction just 500 meters. This sector is also next to the paved road and is situated about 100 meters after the narrow gallery.
|1||Casa delle streghe||5c+||12 m|
|2||Lupo solitario||6c+||15 m|
|1||Galantus nivali||6c||20 m|
|6||Il drago||7c+||20 m|
|8||Boulder wall||7a+||15 m|
|4||Gandalf il grigio||6b+||10 m|
|5||Barbara nei sogni||5a||10 m|
|6||Follia savallese||6b||15 m|
|7||Black panther||6b+||15 m|
|9||Amici sognatori||VI||13 m|
|10||Cocco menego||6c+||12 m|