Corna Zana

Casto

Corna Zana

Description

  • Exposition: East
  • Recommended season:Summer, Mid Season
  • Rock type:Slippery holds and holes
  • Protection:Bolts well placed and close to each other

This is one of the oldest crags of the Valley. When the bolter and mountaineer Ugo Mariani went to trace maps to Corna Zana there were already other routes. These routes were fixed and secured, and others were bolted.

The crag is split into three sectors: Corna Zana, Grotta del Drago (the Cave of the Dragon), and Ponte del Salto (the Bridge of the Jump). The most popular sector is, in any case, Corna Zana.

Except for the cave (Grotta del Drago), this is not the typical severe crag in the Valsabbia area: it's placed in a lovely setting with comfortable parking, Vie Ferrate of Fucine, Casto Forge Park, where there is an excellent cafè and lots of space for children or to have a picnic. It is, in short, a fantastic place to spend a great day with the family and to do some rock climbing.

Everything changes in the sector Grotta del Drago (the Cave of the Dragon): holes and slippery holds leave space to tufas mostly on overhangs. The sector is not very popular among local climbers; unfortunately the rock is not of very hight quality, and even though it's well bolted, the use of a helmet is highly recommended.

Reporter: Davide Franzoni

Approach

Reach Casto, then go through the area of Alone or follow the indication to Parco delle Fucine (Casto Forge Park). Passed the center of Casto (a high relief of a climber on the rock near the first Via Ferrata of the park is well visible). Grotta del Drago sector is reachable following the park's path next to the road (300 mt). The sector Sapei is reachable by car from Corna Zana, going back in Alone direction just 500 meters. This sector is also next to the paved road and is situated about 100 meters after the narrow gallery.

Corna Zana

Corna Zana sectors

1 Casa delle streghe 5c+ 12 m
2 Lupo solitario 6c+ 15 m
3 Paradiso 7b+ 25 m
4 Pisot 6c+ 23 m
5 Regazzine 6b+ 20 m
6 Dispense 6b 18 m
7 Luina 5b 15 m
8 Bandana 5b 15 m

Grotta del drago

Corna Zana sectors

1 Galantus nivali 6c 20 m
2 Ashanti 7c 20 m
3 Besland NL ? m
L1: 7b+ ? m
L2: NL ? m
4 Unnamed NL ? m
5 Unnamed NL ? m
6 Il drago 7c+ 20 m
7 Dragonfly 7b 15 m
8 Boulder wall 7a+ 15 m

Put del salto

Corna Zana sectors

1 Ciclamino 5c 15 m
2 Bucaneve 5a 10 m
3 Viola 5a 10 m
4 Nigritella V 10 m
5 Soldanello 6b+ 15 m
L1: 5b ? m
L2: 6b+ 15 m
6 Genziana 6b+ 15 m

Ai sapei

Corna Zana sectors

1 Unnamed 6b 10 m
2 Unnamed 6b+ 10 m
3 Unnamed 6a+ 10 m
4 Gandalf il grigio 6b+ 10 m
5 Barbara nei sogni 5a 10 m
6 Follia savallese 6b 15 m
7 Black panther 6b+ 15 m
8 Panther VI 13 m
9 Amici sognatori VI 13 m
10 Cocco menego 6c+ 12 m
11 Acqualong 6a+ 12 m