Corna di Fenere


Corna di Fenere


  • Exposition: South
  • Recommended season:Winter
  • Rock type:Limestone and crimps on vertical walls
  • Protection:Resined bolts placed quite close to each other

Corna di Fenere presents itself as a big limestone wall split into three sectors right in front of lake Idro. The crag has been almost entirely equipped by the mountaineer Ugo Mariani, from Valsabbia, in the mid-90s.

Winter is the most recommended season to climb here, even though some sectors, exposed to the South-West, are still good to climb even in mid-seasons; It’s pretty common, under the Summer sunshine, to see some tourists from the close camp site climbing on that walls.

Grades include a 4th grade (obtained by placing some artificial holds) up to 7b+, but the average grade in this crag is commonly the 6th grade. Bolts are usually close but pay attention: routes are never trivial.

It’s almost always a vertical or slightly overhanging wall, and it never miss crimps to squeeze and some steps of confidence.

If you take the chance of visiting this crag remember to enjoy the sunset: it will be the icing on the cake of a great climbing day.

Reporter: Davide Franzoni


Reach Idro and go straight until the area of Vesta. Follow the main road until the wide beach with parking. Enter the path on the right side of the beach and go straight. The crag is on your right (5 minutes). 

Settore A

Corna di Fenere sectors

1 Senza nome 6a+ 15 m

Attacco a 50 metri dal settore principale continuando lungo il sentiero

2 Senza nome 6a+ 15 m

Attacco a 50 metri dal settore principale continuando lungo il sentiero

3 S. Paolo 6b 20 m

6b fino al secondo spit, poi 5c. Partenza in comune con "Rachele (17)".

4 Rachele 5c 20 m

Partenza in comune con "S. Paolo (22)"

5 Fiordaliso 6a+ 20 m
6 Veritas 6c 25 m
7 Bucaniere 6b 28 m
8 Via col vento 6b 23 m
9 Bufo bufo 7a+ 13 m
10 Unnamed NL 10 m
11 Unnamed NL 10 m
12 Resy 4 18 m
13 Baby 4+ 16 m
14 Nadia 6a+ 17 m
15 Abuso di ouzo 7a+ 25 m
16 Granima 6c+ 25 m
17 Nani's wall 6b+ 25 m
18 Heaven's gate 6a+ 22 m
19 Belvedere 5c 22 m
20 Via del Masso 6a+ 22 m
21 Vittoria's wall 7a 30 m
L1: 7a 20 m
L2: 6b 10 m
22 Nibbio bruno 6b+ 30 m
L1: 6b+ 21 m
L2: 6b 9 m
23 Diana 6a 23 m
24 9 dicembre 7b+ 29 m
L1: 6b+ 20 m
L2: 7b+ 9 m
25 Idra 6a 22 m
26 Hale bopp 6a+ 23 m
27 Batel ar 5c 23 m
28 Airone 6b+ 29 m
L1: 6a+ 20 m
L2: 6b+ 9 m
29 Wiepkje 6a 23 m
30 Vegemite 6b+ 23 m
31 Venus 6a+ 23 m