Besume

Provaglio valsabbia

Besume

Description

  • Exposure: South-West
  • Seasonality: Winter
  • Rock Type: Limestone, crimps and little holes
  • Protection: Great, close bolts.

The legend says that in the early '90s Ermanno Francinelli and friends placed a bet on the possibility of climbing the horn "Sot Serel" with some other climbers from Provaglio, but it was just an excuse, in reality, to climb with friends and put up some new routes altogether. The first route was bolted in the right sector; some hangers are still there to testify that bet. 

The year 2007 was the turn of Eros Zanotti and Roberto Pasini, two guys from Provaglio VS, who recovered and maintained the abandoned footpath and put up other routes. 

Next year, Cesare Ligasacchi and Andrea Facchetti put up their route: “I Cugini”. 

 

It was in the year 2014 when Sergio Alberti and Lucio Facchini, with the bolter Beniamino Giori developed a new sector, a cool amphitheater with a little cave, which could be used as a shelter in case of spring rain. Hard work of removing ivy has been done, which had invaded all the crag. It was such a difficult job that a route was dedicated to the ivy, "Edera."  

At the same time, Antonello Liotti put up four routes just after the principal face. 

 

The routes go from the 5° to the 7° grade, and their height is quite humble, if not for four routes on the right, in the "Obelix" sector, which can rise 30 mt height. The crag faces South; it is perfect for climbing on sunny Winter days; the fantastic sight of the valley and the little view of the lake are icing on the cake for this crag.

 

Reporter: Sergio Alberti

 

 

Approach

Reach Barghe village and take the road to Provaglio Valsabbia, which reaches on the right in front of Barghe bridge. 

Go straight on the same way until the "Arveaco" zone, 50m after the café "Angol," take the road to the right and follow indications "Monte Besume."

 

On the top of a steep concrete hill, there is a large clearing and a lawn where it's possible to park the car (ATTENTION: in case of ice on the road during winter months, leave the car on the way where it's possible). Walk straight through a path hidden behind some barns. After a few meters, turn right, where the word "Falesia" has been written on a sign. After 15 minutes of walking halfway, there is the first sector. 

 

Settore A: Obelix

Besume sectors

1 Pane vino 6c 15 m
2 Cegio 6a 15 m
3 Pongo 6a+ 15 m
4 Angelina 5b 15 m
5 Angelina 2 4+ 15 m
6 Edera 6c+ 25 m
7 La panoramica 6a+ 25 m
8 Nient da fa 6a+ 20 m
9 Lucius 5c+ 20 m
10 Corna olta 6c+ 35 m
11 Via dei cugini 7a+ 35 m

Prima parte resistenza di dita
Partenza ravvicinata con Asia

12 Asia 6c 35 m

Partenza ravvicinata con Via dei cugini e Fix frai

13 Fix frai 6b+ 35 m

Partenza ravvicinata con Asia

14 Serè 6a+ 35 m
15 Apis 6b 35 m
L1: 5c 20 m
L2: 6b 15 m
16 Bivacco di fortuna 6b 35 m

Partenza variante della via Apis

Settore B: moschettieri

Besume sectors

1 Atos 6a 10 m
2 Portos 5b 10 m
3 Aramis 7b 15 m
4 D'artagnan 7a 15 m