Francesco Cancarini


Francesco Cancarini


  • Exposition: South
  • Recommended season:Winter, Mid Season
  • Rock type:Limestone, very good to climb
  • Protection:Very well bolted. French Belays, it is necessary to do the rope maneuver

Even if it isn’t a Valsabbia Crag, Lodrino Crag is for sure a bordering crag worthy to be mentioned for its beauty and closeness.

Val Trompia is 900 meters above sea level: Corna di Caspai is a mountain range made of Dolomitic rock of excellent quality. With a front of 80 / 100 meters and a maximum height of 27 meters, it develops between Cavada Pass and Cisa Pass, just up to Lodrino Village.

The crag has been recently bolted. For this reason, the use of the helmet is highly recommended. Routes rarely pass 20 meters in height, and they don’t usually need more than 12 quickdraws each.

Leaving the crag clean is particularly recommended.

Reporter: Stefania Zanetti


  • Approach time: 10 minutes

From Genzianella Pizzeria in Pineta locality, continue on the concrete road down and up. Go straight until the road starts to be unpaved but still drivable. Park in Mut loc. and go back just 10 meters, then take the path downhill into the woods. Pink lanyards are set into the wood to mark the path, so it’s possible to reach a lawn and, then, from the lawn to chestnut and then go down again. The crag is on the right.


1 Cappuccetto rosso 6c ? m
2 Glory hole 6c+ ? m
3 The dark side of the hole 7b ? m

Variante alta di Glory hole

4 FKK frei korpe klettern 7a ? m
5 Prendimi da diedro 6c 18 m
6 Lavoro di piedi 7a+ ? m
7 Clitosmile 7a+ ? m
8 Spruzzavi acqua 6b+ ? m
9 Golden rain 6b+ ? m
10 Il tridente 6b+ ? m
11 Fallo… duro 6a+ ? m
12 Ventun bordò 6a+ ? m
13 Sciupafemmene 6b+ ? m
14 Elevato G.D.P. 5c ? m
15 Terre inesplorate 6a ? m
16 Fagiana ripiena 5a ? m
17 Frana in love 5a ? m
18 I dispersi 6a ? m
19 W re gianni 6c ? m
20 Le follie del presidente 6b+ ? m
21 Il sogno di Praga 6a+ ? m
22 Big sister 6b+ ? m
23 La vedo nera 6a+ ? m
24 Via del soffiatore 5b ? m