Corna di Pavaglio (Fossane)

Barghe

Corna di Pavaglio (Fossane)

Description

  • Exposition: South East
  • Recommended season:Winter
  • Rock type:Crimps, holes, Rods and little canes, the wall is slightly overhanging, strength is necessary
  • Protection:Bolts are not always close to each other

This crag is not very popular if not for locals; It is a hard crag like its sister nearby (Pilastro) where there are no friendly grades and close bolts.

Climbing here requires some strength on quite good holds and great rock. If you like to train and also train your mind properly, Fossane is the best choice.

Routes of Fossane are very logical and never boring. The route most recommended is Ladri di Stelle (star thieves). The routes were initially bolted by Ugo Mariani and Ermanno Francinelli and later rebolted with some 10 mm bolts by Francinelli, Mario Cavagnini, and Silvio Depretis.

Reporter: Ario Soardi

Approach

Reach the bar La Fermata in the Fossane area, where it’s possible to park the car. Take the same road near the bar until a crossroad, then turn right.

Follow the road uphill until it ends. Behind a yellow house, there is a path. Follow the path and, at the crossroad, retake the right.

From here, it’s possible to see parts of the crag, go straight and pay attention not to lose the path until the base of the wall.

 

Routes

1 Ciciaréla 6c 37 m
2 Regali di s. Lucia 6b+ 37 m
3 Fagioli bum bum 7a+/b 43 m
L1: 6b+ 25 m
L2: 7a+/b 18 m
4 S. Silvestro 7b+/c 43 m
L1: 6b 27 m
L2: 7b+/c 16 m
5 Cody e Malmo 7a+/b 25 m
6 Via dell'Ugo 7b+ 40 m
L1: 7b 30 m
L2: 7b+ 10 m
7 Ladri di stelle 6c+/7a 25 m
8 Via del Cico 6c+ 50 m
L1: 6b+ 35 m
L2: 6c+ 15 m

Sosta in comune con Pera birne (L2)

9 Pera birne 7b+/7c 50 m
L1: 6c+ 35 m
L2: 7b+/7c 15 m

Sosta in comune con Via del Cico (L2)

10 Nastro rosso ? 35 m
11 La spada di Damocle 8a 40 m
L1: 7c 25 m
L2: 8a 10 m
12 Missing 7c 33 m
13 Canederli 7c+ 33 m
14 Giovanni Paolo II 7c 30 m