Bione

Bione

Bione

Description

  • Exposition: East, North East
  • Recommended season:Mid Season, Summer afternoons
  • Rock type:Limestone and little holes, rods in “Archeologi” sector, vertical and overhanging crag
  • Protection:Well protected. Bolts are not always close to each other. Avoid routes on the right of “Vortice” route. They are almost abandoned

At the end of the '80s, soon after the first sports climbing competition in Bardonecchia and Arco, which were disputed on rock and not on artificial walls as usual nowadays, the possibility of climbing some routes on the crag "Corna Nibbia" has been reconsidered. Climbing on this crag had been rejected years before because it was too difficult, as generally thought. 

Once some had explored different locations, it was chosen to start with the first route: "La Glir," the dormouse.

Ugo Mariani and Ermanno Francinelli put the first bolts in the first sector, called "Specchio della Luna," Mirror of the Moon, where later other routes will be created, which follow amazing lines. In this same sector, we have to mention Scheletor (6c+), the most meaningful route of the Corna Nibbia crag!

Afterward, the left sector were revalued, and very difficult routes were developed. Again, this is Ermanno Francinelli, supported by Roberto Bernardelli, who bolted "Virus" at the beginning of the '90s, the first route on the overhanging crag, following a very noticeable tufa with great difficulties (close to the 8th grade). 

Later, Mario Cavagnini and Silvio Depretis put on other difficult and very nice routes, letting the crag "Corna Nibbia" become one of the most stunning and demanding walls of Valle Sabbia.

Reporter: Ermanno Francinelli

Approach

When reaching Bione, follow indications to “Piani di Lò”. 

Right upon the village pay attention: before taking the concrete road on the right, which rise to Piani di Lò, go straight through a little descent in the village of Bione. At the end of the descent, there is a large unpaved parking zone, where it is possible to park the car. 

Continue walking through the unpaved road for about 5 minutes, until reaching an old lime kiln, well recognizable and where take the right through the little unpaved road on the right.  After 5 minutes long the path, reach the wall and find out the first path on the right, which takes in the left part of the crag, where, at the moment, it is possible to see an archeological site. 

Corna Nibbia

Bione sectors

1 Variante maestro schifu 7a 30 m
2 La placca 7c 30 m

Roccia dolorosa!

3 Giongolandia 7c 28 m
4 Abbracci di buon compleanno 7b+ 28 m
5 Tree climbing 7b 30 m
6 Demonio monco 7c+ 33 m

Primo boulder di dita, parte alta su canna di resistenza. Molto bella

7 Spettri 7c 34 m
8 La flacca 8a 28 m

Molto bella

9 Principi attivi 8b 28 m

Partenza per la stessa di La flacca, poi taglia a destra

10 Unnamed NL 30 m

Sale a destra di principi attivi (auguri)

11 Un giro a vuoto 8b 33 m

Stupenda linea, molto estetica, sale questa bellissima placca strapiombante a sinistra di un tiro ancora ad liberare. Grado da confermare.

12 Desiré 8c 30 m
13 Virus 7c+ 35 m

Bellissima via che sale nel centro della parete

14 Cryptex 8b 35 m

Bellissimo viaggio

15 Buz factor 8a+ 35 m

Partenza in comune con la via "Campo di fragole". Seguire gli spit che salgono dritti evitando il traverso verso destra che porta all'altra via.

16 Campo di fragole 8a 35 m

Boulder duro prima di andare in catena, bella

17 Archeoclimbing 8b 36 m
18 Variante Archeoclimbing 8a+ 36 m

Partenza su Climbology, dopo il fisso andare a sinistra su canne molto belle

19 Climbology 7c+ 35 m

Molto bello, il passaggio duro è dove c'è il fisso, poi arrampicata di resistenza su canne

20 Spigolo 7c 30 m

Pilastro azzurro

Bione sectors

1 Delfino 6b 22 m
2 Aola 6b 22 m
3 Varù 6a+ 25 m
4 Vai a lavorare 7b 40 m
5 Il segreto 7b+ 40 m
6 Via del santo 6b 30 m
7 Perfidia 6b+ 25 m
8 Super cannone 6c+ 23 m
9 OP OP OP 7b 27 m
10 Camminare 7c+ 27 m
11 Bel gesto 7b+ 27 m
12 Ochio ai lenòcc 7a+ 30 m
13 El bus de la stria 6c 32 m
L1: 6a 20 m
L2: 6c 12 m
14 Pelle pelle 7a+ 30 m

Pietra di Buddah

Bione sectors

1 Via del diedro 5c 22 m
2 Via 30 lance wall 6c 15 m
3 Via gnao 6b 15 m
4 Via del Carlo 6a 12 m
5 Non ce la farai mai Carlo 5c 11 m
6 Valsabbialesa 6a+ 25 m
7 Tina 6a 25 m
8 Tangos 6a 23 m
9 Capitano lamentino 6b+ 23 m
10 Blu tangos 6a+ 23 m
11 La rumba 6c 23 m
12 Il barone rampante 6b 20 m
13 Il figlio del barone 6c 25 m

Specchio della Luna

Bione sectors

1 La volpe 6c 25 m
2 Il tasso 6c 28 m
3 Arrampipanza 6c 30 m

Bellissimo tiro di stile quasi alpinistico

4 De là del gato 7c 30 m
5 El gato 7a+ 30 m

Bella

6 Elephanthom 7c+ 30 m

Roccia molto dolorosa

7 Tete a tete 7c 30 m

Strapiombo complesso

8 L'alchimista 7c+ 30 m

Placca molto tecnica, strapiombo di continuità

9 Danza macabra 7b 30 m

Strapiombo molto bello, placca delicata

10 Scheletor 6c+ 28 m

Placca di continuità

11 Glir 6a+ 25 m

Tiro di riscaldamento, bella

12 Vortice 6b+ 25 m
13 Aloa 7b 20 m

Molto dolorosa

14 L'urlo di Munch 7c+ 20 m
15 Captain Hook 7a+ 20 m