Parete dei Nibelunghi

Lavenone

Parete dei Nibelunghi

Description

  • Exposition: South West
  • Recommended season:Mid Season
  • Rock type:Holds and vertical holes, slightly overhanging
  • Protection:Very well protected, bolts are close to each other

It’s a great mirror of rock surrounded by the peace of a hidden valley.

The first bolts date back to the ‘80s, manually bolted by Ugo Mariani, but the place was rediscovered and re-evaluated in 2012 with the creation of new routes with lengths of more than 30 meters, all of them well bolted with 10 mm fix and anchor with carabiner.

This limestone wall striped yellow and grey offers enjoyable climbing, mostly on holds and holes. It requires a good technique and fundamental use of feet, but it’s also necessary to have force and strength for the overhanging sections of longer routes.

Grades are not too difficult; the closed gear and anchors that breaks difficulties in the middle of the route make this place accessible to many. It’s recommended for climbers who want to raise their limits and test themselves. However, this crag is still little visited.
The ideal time to go to this crag is Mid Seasons, colder and hotter months are not recommended. The wall is impassable with rain, but gets dry quickly with the sun, even after long rainy times.
Sixteen quickdraws and an at least 70 meters rope are necessary to chain the two pitches.

Reporter: Martino Pilatti

Approach

Reached Lavenone from Vestone, cross the inhabited center and go downhill to Idro, until the sharp bend close to the bridge. Immediately on the left, a concreted/unpaved road is visible that goes uphill.
This road isn’t passable without permission, so leave the car on the lawn of the Sports center in the village. Instead, take the unpaved road and reach the crag in 10 minutes of walking.

The crag is well visible, and it’s located beyond the stream. You reach the crag with a path at the point where the unpaved road crosses the stream for the first time.

Settore A

Parete dei Nibelunghi sectors

1 I paparoti 6b 35 m
2 Blocco 6c 35 m

Partenza in comune con Benja

3 Benja 6c 32 m

Partenza in comune con Blocco

L1: 6b+ 20 m
L2: 6c 12 m
4 Nano 6c+ 32 m
L1: 5c 17 m
L2: 6c+ 15 m
5 Celeste 6c+ 30 m
L1: 5c 14 m
L2: 6c+ 16 m
6 Ke amici 6b 30 m
L1: 6a 14 m
L2: 6b 16 m
7 Osso duro 7a 30 m
L1: 6b 14 m
L2: 7a 16 m
8 Le pentole del diavolo 6c 14 m
L1: 6c 14 m
L2: 6c ? m
9 Martinetto 7a+ ? m
10 Senza nome 7a ? m

Settore B

Parete dei Nibelunghi sectors

1 Canto libero 6c+ 20 m
2 Black wolf 7b+ 28 m