Corna 23

Vestone

Corna 23

Description

  • Exposition: South-East
  • Recommended season:Mid Season
  • Rock type:Little crimps, drops and little holes, some routes have little rounded holds on the top
  • Protection:Very well bolted. Very good protection, but some passages with a little spice are also included

This crag is one of the most interesting in the Valley, a very nice limestone crag split into two main sectors: Muro delle Fate and Muro dei Maghi.

In recent years the crag has been bolted and fixed; almost all outdated bolts have been replaced with high-quality 10 mm bolts.

Corna 23 is especially remarkable, compared to other crags, because of its wide range of degrees and levels offered, this permits to welcome beginners like non-beginners.

Muro delle Fate, with its 26 routes between 5a and 6b, is characterized by excellent limestone with many good crimps and little rounded rock formations called "little mushrooms".

At Muro dei Maghi, the scenario is quite different: this sector offers merciless slab routes and some overhanging starts; the little rounded holds (the little mushrooms) leave space for little crimps, holes, and painful crimps. Although in this sector grades are severe compared to Muro delle Fate, some routes have given a hard time even to expert climbers.

This crag was discovered by Emilio Boni from Vestone in the 70s and 80s. After that, Ermanno Francinelli, Ugo Mariani, and later climbers like Mario Cavagnini and Antonello Liotti reclaimed and bolted many routes in Muro dei Maghi.

In the first 2000, Roberto Facchetti, his son Andrea and a few other climbers did a lot of work, such as bolting and cleaning the crag and tracing new routes which are also appreciated by climbers from elsewhere.

In 2008 Valsabbia Climbing was born, with the support of the Municipality of Vestone, CAI (Alpine Club Italy), and Comunità Montana (Mountain Community). These organizations made lots of improvements to this crag, like building some little pitches to reinforce the gravelly soil; this work has been ongoing all these years.

Many thanks to all the volunteers and organizations that, until now, have been applied to those initiatives.

Reporter: Andrea Facchetti

Approach

Reached Vestone, follow indications to Pertica Bassa, Ono Degno, Presegno. Afterward, leaving the village of Vestone, it's necessary to go straight for more or less a kilometer until reaching a bridge through the river. 

At this point, leave the car along the pitch, long but narrow, situated a few meters before the bridge. 

From the road, it is already visible the crag on the left. Walk through the path that begins close to the bridge, which takes to the crag in about 10 minutes.

 

Muro delle fate

Corna 23 sectors

1 La striscia nera 6a+ 15 m
2 Animals 6a 20 m
3 Buchini 6b 20 m
4 Il grido della civetta 4+ 25 m
5 Satisfaction 6a+ 25 m
6 Ciquita 6a+ 25 m
7 Unnamed 6b 25 m
8 Unnamed 6b 25 m
9 Unnamed 6b 28 m

È una variante della via precedente

10 Verde 6a 25 m
11 Veronique 5a 25 m
12 Tutto burro 6a 25 m
13 Diretta 6a+ 25 m
14 Ansa 6a 25 m
15 Anonima 5b 25 m
16 Salice piangente 5c 30 m
17 Blocco mentale 5c 30 m
18 Scacco matto 5c 30 m
19 Il volo del nibbio 5c 27 m
20 Il gatto e la volpe 5c 25 m
21 Perla 5c+ 25 m
22 Mery 5b 25 m
23 Sotto la pioggia 5c 25 m
24 Via 50 m 4+ 45 m
L1: 4+ 30 m
L2: 4+ 15 m
25 Zio Larry 6a 15 m
26 Mr. Sullivan 6a 20 m

Muro dei maghi

Corna 23 sectors

1 Antares 6b 30 m
2 Andromeda 6b 30 m
3 Diedro 6a 15 m
4 Il postino 6c 30 m
L1: La vendetta del postino 6a 15 m
L2: La follia del postino 6c 15 m
5 La ombri e il beniamino 7a+/7b 25 m
6 Soft core 6c+ 45 m
L1: 6c+ 25 m
L2: 6b 20 m

Fare il nodo in fondo alla corda

7 Geremia Jhonson 7a+ 48 m
L1: 6c 23 m
L2: 7a+ 25 m

Boulder poco intuitivo.

8 Macho Camacho 8a 42 m
9 Luci rosse 7a+ 23 m
10 Rosa fumetto 7c+ 43 m
L1: 6c 23 m
L2: 7c+ 20 m
11 Blue note 7b+ 46 m
L1: 6b 23 m
L2: 7b+ 23 m
12 Marylin 7c 46 m
L1: 6b 23 m
L2: 7c 23 m
13 Novi 7a 23 m
14 Hard core 8a 40 m
15 La rosa del lupo 7a 47 m
L1: 6b 22 m
L2: 7a 25 m

Il secondo tiro procede dritto. In alternativa si può seguire la variante che dopo lo strapiombo segue gli spit a sinistra fino a una cengetta (6c+).

16 Agopuntura 6c 23 m
17 Gialla 6a+ 20 m
18 Mosquito coast 7a+ 42 m
19 Indiana Jhons 7b 47 m
L1: 6c 23 m
L2: 7b 24 m
20 Sudo ma godo 7a+ 40 m
L1: 7a+ 24 m
L2: 6c+ 16 m

Fare il nodo in fondo alla corda

21 Flavia 7a+ 41 m
L1: 7a+ 28 m
L2: 6a+ 13 m

Fare il nodo in fondo alla corda

22 Jo idraulico 6c+ 30 m
23 Cannella di pietra 6c+ 34 m
24 Silvia 6b+ 25 m

Spit lungo nello strapiombo

25 Il cavaliere 6b+ 25 m
26 Amico Paco 6b+ 30 m
27 Il tanguro 6c 20 m