Monte Covolo

Villanuova sul Clisi

Monte Covolo


  • Exposition: West
  • Recommended season:Mid Season
  • Rock type:Limestone, sharp notches and little holes
  • Protection:Close bolts

Historians tell that Covolo was a baseline for the ancient people, who wandered in Lake Garda And Valsabbia territory.

A "landmark," as Archeologists call it, is a natural reference point, recognizable thanks to its characteristics, and very useful for travelers who had to find their way through lands in a historical time in which orientation modes hadn't been invented. It has been considered a Landmark for climbers also nowadays. The thick wall of compact limestone, 80 meters high, represents a gem for climbing on plaque and technical overhangs.

Fifty routes are distributed in the two main sectors: the high one, with routes mainly of 6 grade on plaque and technical bumps of pockets and holds, often combined with second pitches highly recommended (with 80 meters rope); the lower one, with routes mostly of 7 grade and some of 8 grade, very technical, intense and of strength, suitable to fingers trained to suffer on sharp notches.
Routes worth mentioning for their beauty on this wall are many. That's why we leave up the interpretation and the discovery of surprise to you.

The gear is excellent, and the exposure, principally to West, permits an excellent climb on Mid Seasons and on Summer mornings when the wall remains in the shadow until more or less 2 PM.
Given the convenience of access and the fast approach of 10 minutes, it is common to find many local climbers on late Summer afternoons who are venting their pitfalls of a workday.

Reporter: Andrea Gentilini


For those coming from the state highway of Tormini or Salò, go straight on the SP116, the road to Villanuova, until the town hall of the village. At the traffic light, follow the uphill road on the right of the town hall. After a few hundred meters, the road turns slightly right here turns left inside Via Carpen. Park on a grassy parking zone on the left, just before the road starts to tighten.
The access path of the crag is on the left of the house in front of the grassy park. It is recognizable because it crosses the tunnel under the state highway. After the tunnel, turn left and follow the uphill path until you find out the walls of the crag. Following straight the path, you arrive at the high sector; the fork on the left takes you to the lower sector.

From the park, it's more or less 10 minutes.


Monte Covolo sectors

1 Unnamed 7a ? m
2 Unnamed ? ? m
3 Unnamed ? ? m
4 Via del diedro 7a 63 m
L1: 6a 30 m
L2: 6c+ 18 m
L3: 7a 15 m
5 Il cimitero dei topi 7c 20 m
6 Requiem 8a+ 20 m
7 Il naso 8a 70 m
L1: 7a+ 20 m
L2: 8a 25 m
L3: 8a 25 m
8 Tanka 7c 18 m
9 Green time 6a 20 m
10 Non è un 7a 4+ 15 m
11 Esotica 6a 22 m
12 Per chi suona la campana 7b 80 m
L1: 6b+ 20 m
L2: 7b 20 m
L3: 6a 20 m
L4: 6c 20 m
13 Leopatra 7a+ 30 m
14 Gabibo 7b+ 32 m
15 Zio Miky 8a+ 32 m
16 Nisolà 8a 32 m
17 Il corvo 6c+ 32 m
18 Emmentale Strasse 7c+ 40 m
L1: 7c 28 m
L2: 7c+ 12 m
19 I 50enni NL 40 m
20 Il ciuccione 7b 40 m


Monte Covolo sectors

1 Babette 7a 10 m
2 Choose the best 6b+ 20 m
3 Blade ranner 7a 20 m
4 Balla coi lupi 7a+ 20 m
5 No limit 7b+ 25 m
6 Il volo del Mario 7b 28 m
7 Tuxedo 6c+ 22 m
8 Mani pulite 6b 20 m
9 Dulcinea del tombroso 7b 10 m


Monte Covolo sectors

1 Ignie-gnac 5c 22 m
2 A2 A2 20 m
3 Yeppa gniecca 7c+ 20 m
4 Gnigo gnago 7a 25 m
5 Smaramauz 6b 24 m
6 Il pilone 7b 30 m
7 La beffa del pilone 6c 30 m
8 Gogò 5c 47 m
L1: 5c 22 m
L2: 5c 25 m
9 Critical caire 6a 20 m
10 Direct du boucher 6a+ 28 m
11 Regina del Covolo 6b 48 m
L1: 6b 28 m
L2: 6b 20 m
12 Capriccio arabo 6a 30 m
13 Minù 6a 30 m
14 Pilù 6a+ 45 m
L1: 5c 25 m

La sosta si trova sulla destra.

L2: 6a+ 20 m
15 Tentazioni di ferragosto 5c 28 m
16 Super Gullit 6a+ 40 m
L1: 6a 25 m
L2: 6a+ 15 m
17 Black dog 6a+ 40 m
L1: 6a+ 25 m
L2: 6a 15 m
18 Soleà 6a+ 13 m

Attenzione alla partenza delicata e ai primi moschettonaggi

19 Confessioni di un malandrino 5c+ 40 m
L1: 5c+ 25 m
L2: 5c 15 m
20 Vai le là 5b 25 m
21 Ginzling 6a+ 8 m
22 Zio Pino 6c 8 m
23 Vac pep 6b 8 m
24 Pietre volanti 6b+ 8 m


Monte Covolo sectors

1 El ghiro 6b ? m
2 Raffi 6b+ ? m
3 Allo 6a ? m
4 Che tocio 5a ? m

Piastrine rosa

5 Facile 3+ ? m