Il Renico

Villanuova sul Clisi

Il Renico

Description

  • Exposure: South East
  • Seasonality: Winter, Mid Season
  • Rock Type: Limestone, climbing varies,on slab, little indentations and overhangs
  • Protection: Good protection, bolts are quite close

Renico crag is an evident conglomerate of rock that links the homonym Mountain, Renico, a hill overlooking Villanuova village on the outskirts of Val Sabbia.  

Thanks to its particularly panoramic position, on the beautiful landscape of Salò gulf and Lake Garda, and to the exposure to the South-East, which makes it sunny, this crag is a little gem to search for a pleasant climbing day on cold Winter days and Mid-Season.

Even though it was visible from the road below and Covolo crag, this place has always been subjected to timid explorations, without real decisive action.

Just in 2014, the first routes started to appear, thanks to Cristian’s interest and the group Climberlesi that, powered by an arduous feeling of promoting local rock, started a project long and hard of cleaning and bolting.

Today, the crag offers about twenty entertaining routes for easy and medium-level climbers, with difficulties between 5b and 7b.

Fall and spring are the better seasons to climb here, and it’s great on cold days. However, thanks to its altitude of 700 meters on the sea, it’s enjoyable climbing also during Summer afternoons after 4 p.m.

Attention: A helmet is recommended!

Reporter: Stefania Zanetti

 

Approach

The climbing zone is reachable from the steep path which takes to the shrine of Madonna della Neve.

From Brescia, take out from the State Highway at Villanuova exit, then follow indications to Tormini of Roé Volciano. Before the roundabout of Tormini, turn left at a bridge on river Chiese, which takes to the area of Ponte Pier.  

Cross the Sports Center Milanino ( it’s on the right), then go up through hairpins, cross the hamlet of Canneto and follow the same road to Peracque, the last hamlet of Villanuova where it ends. You find two parking areas there.

Between habitations, winds up the path on the left, signed by CAI, with indications to the shrine Madonna della Neve.

The sector is visible on the right after more or less 20 minutes of walking.

The first two routes start a few meters from the main path.

 

Routes

1 Me spete mia 5c 16 m
2 Aspettando l'amico 5c 16 m
3 Aspettando la luna 5b 16 m
4 Tango86 7b 45 m
L1: 6a 25 m
L2: 7b 20 m
5 Liscio 6a+ 20 m
6 Dayoff 6a 20 m
7 Classe 86 5c 20 m
8 ET 6b+ 20 m
9 Emass 5b 20 m
10 Scherzo di carnevale 7a+ 29 m
L1: 6b 20 m
L2: 7a+ 9 m
11 Diedro leso 6b 35 m

Variante di destra da liberare

12 Covid20 7c 34 m
13 Aspettando Kevin 6c 34 m
14 Ederando 6c 30 m
L1: 6b 20 m
L2: 6c 10 m
15 Redpassion 6b+ 30 m
16 Metalglas 6b+ 53 m
L1: 6b 33 m
L2: 6b+ 20 m
17 Aspettando Jonathan 6a+ 30 m
18 Il gnocco 7b 6 m